24 hours in Delhi
How we’ve changed! Or has the city? In late 2006, early 2007 I wrote 2 articles for a magazine called Incredible India. It’s been a while since they were published. So, here’s one, read on (and remember, it was written years ago!)…
Delhi. The city that romanced various dynasties; saw the rise and fall of empires since its inception as ‘Indraprastha’; accepted all with open arms and evolved into a melting pot of cultures. A beautiful affair of two cities: old and new – Purani Dilli and Lutyen’s Delhi. A shopper’s paradise and a food lover’s absolute fantasy! A breathing, breeding and completely maddening city. The greenest capital in the world. The city you cannot help fall in love with. The city of Djinns… The city rich with culture and heritage.
The National Capital cannot be experienced in twenty four hours. You need to taste the paranthas and the chaat, to smell the advent of winter and the bonfires, to feel the sun beating down on you, to see the various colours of the capital, and hear the many voices speaking all of India’s languages in one bustling metropolitan. You need to feel the shiver down your spine when you come in touch with history: when you look up at The India Gate. You need to eat ice cream in Delhi winters! Hear the crunch of the dry rusting autumn leaves under your feet. You need to inhale the rare Nargis flowers, and walk in one of the numerous green patches of the city.
Delhi has a lot to offer, so much to fall in love with…
If 24 hours is all you have for this city, I’ll try, only to compel you to return with a few days’ leave. A few glimpses of South Delhi, a stroll in Lutyen’s Delhi (central Delhi) and a tryst with history in Old Delhi is on your itinerary.
9:00 – 9:45 am
Dilli-wallahs love eating out – dhabas, fast food joints, chaat shops, casual as well as fine dining restaurant are plenty. The city is often known as the food capital of India and rightly so. So, start your day with a one of a kind array of south Indian (Tamil) delicacies at the Saravana Bhawan. A restaurant that has become quite a favourite with the dilli-wallahs! Even the ones that are sworn non-vegetarians fall in love with the ‘strictly’ vegetarian food, the ambience, and the friendly atmosphere. The restaurant is hygienic and a fine example of value for money.
10:00 – 11:00 am
Your next stop is the National Museum of History or you could visit the National Gallery of Modern Art. Ask your driver to take a detour and enjoy the sights of Rajpath and the India Gate lawns. India Gate is the majestic memorial to the unknown soldiers who lost their lives in World War I. There is also the Raj Bhawan perched on the Raisina Hill. The city looks truly magnificent as you drive around this area – as you look at the wide roads converging at the India Gate.
The National Museum is the largest museum in Delhi with over 2,00,000 exhibits of exquisite art both foreign and Indian – miniature paintings, musical instruments, manuscripts, sculptures and a lot more! This place is a history enthusiast’s haven. For those who would prefer analysing paintings the National Gallery of Modern Art is a must visit.
11:15 am – 12:00 pm
Delhi is also well known as a shopper’s paradise – choose between a shopping spree at Janpath or the well known underground market Palika Bazaar. For an unbeatable range of clothes and accessories at unbelievable prices you should browse away at Janpath and don’t forget to bargain! A must buy is a pair of kolhapuri chappals! At the infamous Palika Bazaar you can get great deals at electronics, CDs and DVDs. Despite being a Delhite I still get lost in this underground maze of shops selling a range of shoes, and leather goods at unheard of prices.
12:00 – 12:45 pm
After all that shopping, walk to CP’s inner circle and enjoy mouth-watering desserts and yummy chicken patties at Wenger’s – one of Delhi’s oldest pastry shops. Right behind the Wenger’s is the famous Keventer’s milkshake shop! A visit to CP definitely deserves a visit to this tiny shop which still has thousands of regulars pouring in, taking their pick from the variety of flavours on offer here – butterscotch and strawberry are quite popular.
12:45 – 2:00 pm
Another drive is in the offing; one of Delhi’s most popular tourist haunts is Dilli Haat. It’s a favourite amongst tourists, families, and even students for the variety of handicrafts available here and the cuisines from all of parts of India! You can pick from the various food stalls – there’s a kashmiri platter, north India’s most famous offering – Daal Makhani and Roti, there’s chhole bhature and chaat available, and North east Indian cuisine is also quite popular! All sorts of Indian desserts are also available – just pick what you feel like indulging in, although a visit to Delhi without Gulab Jaamuns is unforgivable! To burn all those calories you can look around at the handicrafts on display and even do some shopping. If you are lucky there might be some performance that you can enjoy.
2:00 – 2:30 pm
Delhi has many monuments interspersed with the modern buildings and the various shopping centres and office complexes. It will be impossible to visit all of them in a day, but Safdarjung Tomb is a five minute drive from Dilli Haat. The monument stands in the middle of an extensive garden and is referred to as the “Last flicker in the lamp of Mughal Architecture” in India.
2:30 – 3:15 pm
The next monument you should visit is located on the Bharat Scout Guide Road; the drive on this road takes you far away from the crazy bustle of city life. Humayun’s tomb is the first significant example of Mughal architecture in India. It was built in the 16th century by the Humayun’s widow. The elements of the building’s design are said to be the basis for many Mughal monuments including the Taj Mahal.
3:15 – 4:15 pm
The city is a delightful and eclectic mix of histories, cultures, people, languages, cuisines and a lot more! One minute you are enraged at the insane traffic and the next you are driving on one of the most beautiful roads you’ve ever seen to majestic monuments that take your breath away.
After you are done exploring Humayun’s tomb, it’s time to take a similar drive and experience one of the cultural hotspots of New Delhi – the India Habitat Centre – popularly referred to as IHC. If you would like an evening drink or indulge in a pancake or two, the American Diner is your next stop. If you feel like Dilli ki Chaat or need more variety you can walk over to Eatopia – one of Delhi’s most favoured food courts with a lot to choose from. But food isn’t really IHC’s main attraction. It’s the paintings or photographs on display; it’s the plays, the concerts and film screenings. The amphitheatre transports one back to days of sharing cigarettes and chai and conversations with friends.
4:15 – 4:45 pm
If you need some more of the capital’s greenery, a walk through Lodi Gardens is next on your itinerary! The vast grounds of Lodi Garden were established in the 15th and the 16th centuries by the Sayyids and Lodis, these were then re-landscaped in 1968. There are also several tombs situated in the garden, which belong to the Lodi and Sayyid era, and include Muhammad Shah’s and Sikander Lodi’s tomb.
4:45 – 5:45 pm
Your next stop is The Red Fort for a Sound & Light show. Every evening this show recreates the rich history of the fort. There are shows in English and Hindi, and tickets are available at the Fort itself. Before the show catch a few glimpses of Purani Dilli (Old Delhi). This part of Delhi is starkly different from the city you’ve been trying to explore. It was once the city of Shahjahanabad. Shah Jahan established it and made it his capital. Today, it is a labyrinth of narrow lanes lined with remains of 17th century havelis (mansions).
5:45 – 6:45 pm
The major attractions of the area are Chandni Chowk, Red Fort and Jama Masjid. You can walk around this area but a rickshaw ride through the incredibly tiny lanes is not to be missed! It is now more than 300 years old and is also one of India’s most prominent wholesale and retail markets! It is right opposite the Red Fort and houses the Digamber Jain Temple, with a ‘Birds’ hospital’, and Fatehpuri Mosque. Go ahead and take your pick. And don’t miss the Dilli ki chaat available at various shops or the famous Paneer Jalebi (sweetmeats)! Ask around and someone will guide you in the right direction.
6:45 – 9:00 pm
Its time to start walking towards the Red Fort. Shah Jahan, shifted his capital from Agra to present Old Delhi (Shahjanabad), and laid the foundation of Lal Qila or Red Fort on 16th April 1639. It took nine years to complete this mighty fortress. It is said that its construction took about one crore of rupees! An exorbitant sum in those days, most of which was spent to build the exotic palaces within the fort – Diwan-i-am (Hall of Public Audience), Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Selective Audience), the Naubat Khana (The drum house), the Moti Masjid and Mumtaz Mahal. The majestic octagonal red sandstone fort has two gates – Lahori Gate (the entrance) and Delhi Gate – as they face Lahore and Delhi respectively.
9:00 – 10:00 pm
After the show, indulge in a sumptuous dinner at Karim Hotel at Jama Masjid. It has been ranked the 2nd Best Restaurant in Delhi, after Bukhara. The food here is to-die-for! The traditional recipes transport you back to the magnificent times of the Mughals. This magical little restaurant was established in 1913. A visit to Delhi deserves a meal here. The sufi qawalis playing at panwaris (pan sellers) and the sight of a beautifully lit Jama Masjid are part of the walk to Karim’s, and prepare you for the food you are about to enjoy. There’s the Ibteda (soups) you can start with and the choices for main course are immense. You should definitely try the kababs and tikkas that melt in your mouth. There are various chicken and mutton dishes to suit anyone’s fancy, and for the vegetarians there is no dearth of options. You can also choose from a variety of rice dishes and a range of rotis (breads). If you aren’t in the mood for rich and traditional mughlai food and don’t mind spending a little extra (and here little is an understatement) then there is Bukhara, at the ITC Maurya Sheraton, which serves delicious north-western frontier cuisine. It has also been rated the ‘Best Indian Restaurant in the World’! The Sikandari Raan and the Dal Bukhara are undoubtedly the best served in India. This restaurant has not changed its menu or recipes for the past 30 years! The regulars, the patrons won’t have it any other way.
10:30 pm
Delhi’s food is exceptionally satisfying but there’s much more to do…! You can head out to various bars or pubs in the city depending solely on your mood. For those who love rock, there’s Turquoise Cottage – The Other Side. This place is usually packed and it is the music (rock, jazz) that makes is exceptionally popular. For those who like their scotch, the Whiskey Bar, at The Grand, beckons. The bar has an exceptional collection of single malts, the largest in Delhi, and also serves cocktails. Another club which has taken Delhi by storm is Elevate. The raised DJ portal ensures that the DJ takes centre stage! The club is spread over 3 floors and has the largest club layout in India. If you like clubbing, you won’t want to miss this place. The pulsating beats and memories of Delhi will mesmerise you…
Meme, Meal Meme.
Ms Narcotic has tagged me to do a Meal Meme!
“Five memorable meals ever eaten: It could be anything that makes the meal memorable – the food, the place, the place you were in your life when you ate, the company, the weather, the ambiance – heck, the guy who served the food!”
Alright then, here goes.
1. Mutton Curry and Rice, Summer Vacation, Class V (I think)
This was the year I fell in love with spices. My mother is the world’s best cook, and yes, I know everyone feels that way about their mothers. But seriously, my mother is the best cook in the world. The food this gorgeous woman serves makes you fall in love with food, with life, with yourself and her. The mutton is cooked to perfection – first, it is sealed in searing hot oil; then, it is added to the masala of caramelised onions and khada masalas, spices in their purest form possible; then, it is cooked over low heat till it is perfect.
This particular meal was prepared with onions chopped by me. I was allowed to sit and observe in the kitchen, and the tips she talked of have stayed with me till today. Once the food was cooked, I was asked to go change and be ready to eat with everyone. After a shower, I sat in the large, cool kitchen on a hot summer day and devoured the mutton curry with rice. That was also the summer I realised that curries and rice should be eaten, not with forks or spoons, but with your hands! Yum!
2. Lunch at The Belvedere Dining Room, Tollygunge Club, Calcutta (now Kolkata), Sumer Vacation, Class VI
I was asked to wear a skirt and a pretty top that my Massi (Aunt) gave me. We drove in a chauffeur driven car through Calcutta and I loved every bit of the crazy traffic for it took me through enormous gates and lush greens of the Tollygunge Club. We were seated at a beautiful table, with silver cutlery, white and blue crockery and crystal glasses! Everything was exquisite and reminiscent of the luxury of “the Raj”, I felt like I had been transported to a time long forgotten. I remember eating tiny morsels of baby shrimp, followed by a gorgeous chicken au gratin as the main course. I had never felt more grown up and elegant – ‘playing the part of a lady’. I loved the way the maitre d’ waited for me with a smile to make up my mind and place the order. The creme brulee at the end of the meal made me crave a second helping! It was a wonderful afternoon, and I don’t think any other creme brulee or fine dining restaurant has matched up to my first…
3. Dessert at The Big Chill, College 1st year
The first year at college was coming to and end, we had ‘em groups and people we would hang out with. But this particular dessert was special. It was 4 girls attacking this enormous chunk of ice cream pie, the Mississippi Mudpie! We grabbed our forks/spoons and giggled over it. we talked and shared, smoked and had ‘em discussions. It was fantastic. Yes, we all fell in some sort of love that day. Yes, I love them, still (!)
4. Finishing an entire Watermelon (one of those crazy 4-5 kilo ones) at my house, 2003
I don’t remember what we ate for lunch, I don’t even remember drinking that day. I do distinctly remember sitting in my room and eating watermelon and cursing the seeds and still eating some more with Led Zepp, DT, Maiden, and others playing in the background. Even Lizzy was there, my pet Labrador, and my friends kept on requesting Thin Lizzy songs or Black Dog over and over again. It was one of those days when everything seemed so right and comfortable and fun, without even trying. Ah, miss that house. Miss those days when ;having fun’ didn’t need so much planning.
5. Nihari at Ballimaran, October/November 2007
I remember parking at CP, taking the Metro, then the rickshaw ride. It was one of those beautiful dark nights with a sliver of the moon gleaming against the cloudless dark sky. We walked on, crossed Ghalib ka darwaza, walked some more and finally made it to this tiny shop like restaurant. We were served Nihari, Marrow and Brain all cooked to perfection, garnished with copious amounts of butter, with chillies and ginger! I ate so so much that night! We all did! We even ate habshi halwa on our way back. I distinctly remember Asif Bhai telling me how proud he was of my abilities to consume insane amounts of food! Hehe!
Special mentions -
Sushi, sushi and more sushi, China Town, Sydney – I fell in love! I also realized sea urchins are not my thing. Not. At. All.
Breakfast in bed: cheese omelette, butter toast, chai and apple cake – I fell in love, all over again!
***
People, do share your memorable meals! You know who you are..!
Look Mama, where I’m at!
Remember this? Pay attention to the second review.
Now, look at what I found? Notice the third review! Heh, I’m quite thrilled! Especially so, beh-cause they picked it up themselves! :)
All I want is love.
My drink, yes, my alcoholic beverage, needs to be prepared a certain way to be perfect. I need an old-fashioned glass, with 3 cubes of ice, let me rephrase that, with 3 perfect cubes of ice. Then, we pour 30 ml of JD and then we top it with Coke.
How difficult is that?
Well, very.
Firstly, I am not that fussy, so, I can deal with a not perfect glass. But the ice. What’s with the ice!?
Exhibit A: small, tiny insipid cubes of ice floating around, melting too soon, ruining my drink.
Exhibit B: Giant cubes of ice that do not budge, and destroy the JD: Coke ratio. Chheh.
Exhibit C: Those fake ice cubes that are hollow! Now, if the Exhibit A situation needs to be fixed, I up the ice cubes and for Exhibit B I go easy on the ice. But these fake, pretentious cubes are hollow and not evidently so! How can one be sure of them being hollow from one peep into the ice bucket? Argh! Ruiners of all things beautiful and worth living for, I hate ‘em hollow ice cubes! Hate.
Then, we have the JD, which in my opinion, is a sweet smelling, beautiful, well-rounded drink that leaves one wanting more. More of oak, more of the hints of caramel and more luscious lipped kisses and copious amounts of love.
Coke. Coca Cola, not Pepsi, not Thums Up, not the premix shite, but Coca Cola. If you get this wrong, or worse, try and lie to me about it, I will kill you.
Now, SCOOT. Get me a JD and coke, with 3 ice cubes, please. :)
